While there’s no denying the majesty and
splendor of the Amazon, with its dense, lush and verdant landscape and the ceaseless,
yet enchanting symphony of its exotic critter concert, I can’t say I’m
particularly built to last in this environment.
Since arriving here via a complex
choreography of interchanging planes, busses and boats, I have not stopped
sweating. And as it turns out, this thick film of perspiration has rendered my
flesh a smorgasbord of succulent temptation for every insect in this fucking
jungle to dine out on.
Suffice to say, I am in a perpetual state of
itchy, sticky irritation.
And yet, most of my comrades have had no
problem embracing all that this terrain brings. They’ve sploshed about in the
grimy brown broth of Amazonian waters. Saturated their bodies in the stinky mud
baths that line its swampy banks. And waded through tangled labyrinths of
tropical wilderness without so much as a sniff of consideration for the dangers
that lurk within.
I just don’t think “devil may care” is part
of my programming.
That’s not to say I haven’t tried to feign
an airy halo of nonchalance. I spent a good 48 hours or so doing the whole
‘fake it to make it’ routine. I exuded nothing but graciousness towards the
local “ayahuscaro” (healer) as he battered my head with a shriveled bunch of leaves
and blew smoke in my face in honor of our inaugural blessing. I ballyhooed bon
mots of “awesome”, “wow” and “amazing” during a boat trip to spot pink
dolphins, when in actual fact all I really caught sight of was an amorphous
blur of wet mammalian arse. And I have generously extolled delight and
gratitude at the frankly bland and tasteless culinary offerings that have been
peddled at us during mealtimes.
But in the end I thought, who am I fucking kidding?!
Since then, I’ve been more or less consigned
to the hermetically sealed environment of my room, where I have either splayed
myself out on my bed, under the soothing wafts of the fan, or lolled around
languidly on the hammock that hangs in my equally enclosed, netted veranda.
Added to all this discomfort has been the
horrible inconvenience of being outrageously constipated. I don’t think I’ve
been able to squeeze out so much as a high-pitched fart since I left Urubamba and
consequently, my stomach is now about as distended as an African famine baby’s.
But then I don’t know who is more full of
shit…me, or the one or two rather more happy clappy members of the group that I
find myself trapped here with. Thanks to them, there’s a somewhat interminable whiff
of spiritual bullshit around these here parts. Then again, different strokes for
different folks – I mean, who am I to question other people’s metaphysical proclivities?
But tomorrow begins the first of our Ayahuasca
ceremonies. My chance to finally communicate with the cosmos. And if ‘Mother’
really does know best, then I hope she brings me something to assuage all these
tribulations – along with the spoonful of tolerance I need to survive the
remainder of this trip without doing or saying something I might deeply regret.
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